Between Shifts and Sheaths

I think I should preface my fall sewing posts with the following: Fall in Austin is not very cold at all. Thus, my “fall sewing” is mostly just trying to make summer-weight clothing look like fall clothing! First up, a couple of dresses based on New Look 6095.

These dresses were my first use of Swedish Tracing Paper that I ordered from Amazon here. I saw it on another blog, but I can’t remember which one right now. I wanted to preserve the original pattern for future work, since the dress is so perfectly basic that I was sure I would want to make it again for myself or someone else.

On the first round I tried to make the alterations I knew I needed: a one-inch full-bust adjustment and grading to a larger size at the hip. This was based on finished garment measurements and the amount of ease that I wanted. I measured between the 14 and 16 in the chest (37), but I knew the 16 wouldn’t fit in the shoulder so I used the 14 (I’m a big C, small D cup). My waist was also in the middle (29.5) but I know I’m perpetually taking things in at the waist so I went for the 14 at the waist as well. I know my backside is relatively large (40) so that I would definitely need the 16 there to get proper ease.

In the end I did something odd, and surely not so “right.” I made the front in the straight size 14 with a full bust adjustment and added waist darts. Those waist darts are the motivation for the title: I wanted the dress shaped, but not fitted.

Then I broke all the rules and graded just the back from a 14 to a 16 from waist to hip and took out an inch at the lengthen-shorten line to match the increased dart intake in the front. To my surprise, this worked out fine.

All of those adjustments took forever and induced many groans from my boyfriend who was very annoyed that I kept running back and forth from my sewing station in our living room to the full-length mirror in our bedroom to adjust the fit. In the end though, I’m incredibly happy with how my dresses turned out!

After reading all of the reviews for the pattern on Pattern Review I decided to use bias binding on the neck (and armholes below) to keep the dresses lightweight. It was my first time using the method, so the print on the black dress is hiding some mistakes. It went perfectly on the orange dress.

The first is intended for a cocktail occasion, in a print that I LOVE. It has just enough vintage flair for my taste, without making it look like a costume (I have strong opinions about wearing vintage.)

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front view
Very happy with the finished fit! Yes I wanted it a little looser, it’s meant to be comfortable and conservative, for those times when there are “real” adults in the room.

The second is designed as a really lightweight fall dress. I loved the orange because it made me think of fall, would complement my subtly red hair, which of course I forgot to let hang in the picture, and I could picture it looking great with my brown flats. As soon as he saw it though, my boyfriend lamented my use of “burnt orange.” Oops, I made it in UT colors without thinking! At least I’ll fit in on campus. I’ll take the accidental school spirit. I shortened this one a bit as well, to keep it casual for school. The professors give seminars in shorts and a tshirt in my department, so I try not to dress up too much so I don’t stick out (because I want to daydream during class/seminars sometimes.) I also want to emphasize that the orange dress is linen. I claim all wrinkles are part of the look.

front view
Does the brown belt make it less “go longhorns” and more “yay fall”?

I’m quite excited to have this pattern in my stash. It’s incredibly fast to sew up now, and I know it will fit perfectly. Here’s how I styled the orange dress for school the other day (re-created because I didn’t take a picture in the morning).

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